Expensive chain=Worth the money?

[panhead4383]

Hi,

I just replaced the cassette on my road bike and was wondering if it is necessary to get a dura-ace chain to go with the dura-ace cassette, or will a regular shimano chain do the trick. Chains don't last long anyway, and I can't see the purpose of paying $45 for a chain.

[spookyload]

I like the sram chains better than shimano chains anyways. Any Shimano chain will do. I would look at Ultegra cassettes instead of Dura Ace too.

[pops]

The more expensive chains are coated. This prevents the chains from rusting the bushings and piviots. After the internals rust, the next time you ride the chain wears more than normal. The chain has 1/2 inch pitch. This means that the center to center distance of the pins in the chain (when it is new and unused) is 1/2 inch. Find a tape measure, measure 12" of chain, when the chain has streched 1/16" over the measured 12", it's time to change it. I usually will use 3-4 chains before the cassette start skipping. I always use the Dura-Ace chain, it lasts about twice as long as some of the other brands.

[losdog]

my dominatrix suggest shimano chains. she swears by them :)

[Idoeyes]

find one you like and stick with it......I like Whipperman chains. Sram #2 Shimano only on the high end.

[pops]

The way you save is "restrict" the mileage. heh,heh,heh

[ritebike]

I swear by SRAM chains. I used Sachs chains, before SRAM bought them out. I personally think that they are better all around. The clincher is the quick link for me. I have been riding these chains since since 1990, and have only had 1 quick link come apart while I was riding. It was my fault, I didn't have it connected properly. I found the parts, and rode out of the trails. With Shimano, if you break a chain pin, you need a new pin, and a chain tool that will push the (proper replacement pin) into place. With SRAM, all that is required is a quick link, and a chain tool to remove the bad link. When it comes down to time, you will be riding sooner with SRAM. You can talk to Marty, he will tell you what I ride, and the reason why, or he will give you my phone number, and I will be happy to tell you myself. I am a former racer, current bike messenger and a certified bicycle mechanic. I will say this, everybody rides certain components for different reasons, to each his own. Every mechanic has a different opinion, I go with the parts that I see the less problems with, and the company that has taken care of their customers. My drivetrain, Der., and Shifters are SRAM. My Hydraulic Brakes, Shimano

[spookyload]

I too have been riding SRAM/Sachs chains on every bike except my Campy road bikes since 1996. The only power link I have ever had fail was during a six hour race. I was tired 5.5 hours into it and got lazy with a ugly front/rear combo shift. Chain didn't like it and sprung my quick link. Unfortnately it happened under load and the two parts went flying. I now carry a spare quick link just in case this happens again, but I doubt it will.

[pops]

I also have had failures with the SRAM master link. I still use them. I do buy them 10 at a time though. lol I use the SRAM link with the Dura-Ace chain also. When my son and I were rideing together, I used Shimano parts on my bike and SRAM parts on his bike. The SRAM chains generally lasted 1/3 as long. Then I swapped all the parts around (rode the SRAM group on my bike) and got the same result. Just because SRAM chains are cheaper, does't mean they're more economical. During these tests, I figured out that of all the parts and groups I tried, I liked XTR/Dura-Ace the best. Generally, I got more than my moneys worth. I have a 10 year old road bike it has 45K miles on it. It came with 8-speed, now has 9-speed, and as 9-speed disappears, I guess it'll get 10-speed. My 1st mountain bike came with 5-speed. Under went same progression. Looks like 10-speed is next.

[nrsed]

the whipperman with that connect link ( or whatever they call it) is on my giant now. I've only used a couple of them but that link is easy on easy off. I think it's the best link.

[ritebike]

Pops,
I agree with the cheaper chains. I only use the high end SRAM, and I have always replaced them probably before they needed to be, but that is just me trying to save my drivetrain.

[spookyload]

I also have had failures with the SRAM master link. I still use them. I do buy them 10 at a time though. lol I use the SRAM link with the Dura-Ace chain also. When my son and I were rideing together, I used Shimano parts on my bike and SRAM parts on his bike. The SRAM chains generally lasted 1/3 as long. Then I swapped all the parts around (rode the SRAM group on my bike) and got the same result. Just because SRAM chains are cheaper, does't mean they're more economical. During these tests, I figured out that of all the parts and groups I tried, I liked XTR/Dura-Ace the best. Generally, I got more than my moneys worth. I have a 10 year old road bike it has 45K miles on it. It came with 8-speed, now has 9-speed, and as 9-speed disappears, I guess it'll get 10-speed. My 1st mountain bike came with 5-speed. Under went same progression. Looks like 10-speed is next.

If you are going to change over the drive train on your road bike, dip your toes into Campy. For you my friend super record 11. By pass the whole 10 speed thing altogether. It is expensive as shit, but it is only money. You can't take it with you.

[pops]

Damn, stealing my lines.

[spookyload]

Just trying to tempt someone I know into getting super record so I can see it without buying it.

[egordon]

Nothing like singlespeeding on a $15 KMC

[pops]

I'm not too sure about the singlespeed thing on a road bike. Might limit where you could ride. I have looked at that Super Record stuff (with some drool!), since it came out. All that Campy hardware is sooooooo pretty. I've been thinking about the D/A electric next time. Price is very high. lol I want it in triple. This limits my options.

[spookyload]

You are not that old James. You don't need a triple here. The overpasses aren't that fast.